FRP Duratec Turbo Project!

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warrenpenalver said:
looking good!!

Did you sort out the pics and details for the soldering for mondeo dash clocks??
Sorry Warren, I fitted them to make sure they worked and never took them back out again, but I've just brought that temp clock I wanted to get, so going to take them out to try and wire that in, also going to put a clear polyester resin over all the wires and soldering so the vibration is less likely to loosen them.

I need to talk carbon with you, vac baging, epoxies, layers and gsm ect. Looking at making a bonnet with a 2 x 2 200gsm twill outer, heavier 400gsm inner multiaxial second layer, then fibreglass reinforcement. Don't know if the un-balanced 200 & 400 will pull out of shape, I think you are supposed to have the same outer as inner so it's balanced, but not sure how much exploring you've done yet!
 
PumaNoob said:
I need to talk carbon with you, vac baging, epoxies, layers and gsm ect. Looking at making a bonnet with a 2 x 2 200gsm twill outer, heavier 400gsm inner multiaxial second layer, then fibreglass reinforcement. Don't know if the un-balanced 200 & 400 will pull out of shape, I think you are supposed to have the same outer as inner so it's balanced, but not sure how much exploring you've done yet!
PM me any questions! Im halfway through making a bonnet mould anyway.

In theory a laminate stack should be relatively even so that it doesnt warp slightly. You can have what you want in the middle but if the outer layers are completely different then you can get a bit of tension across the panel. I made some test sheets and even with a foam core for rigidity an uneven stack with kevlar on just one side, curved very slightly.
 
Well that's what I was worried about! I didn't want to use 2x2 for all layers because it's more expensive, & it's not as strong, so was wondering i could use a same/similar weight fibreglass as the 3rd layer to balance it and use a stronger reinforcing multi axial layer in the middle? I even thought about using a 2x2 for top layer, then fibreglass for the rest, but you'd see the White through the carbon. I'll wait until I've got the more important things out the way, like fitting the engine, then pester you for carbon!!
 
2x2 is perfectly adequate for non structural parts like body panels.

If your really paranoid you could rotate the lay up 30 degrees for each layer but seriously thats overkill. Very few professional carbon places do that. Plus its wasteful as it comes off the roll with the weave aligned anyway! if your using 400gsm, all you would do is use 2 layers of 200gsm for one layer of 400gsm and it would be just as strong.

fibreglass is weaker than any of the carbons you can get. It has one advantage, its cheap!

my bonnet will be foam cored. Much lighter than a seperate inner frame.
 
You're like the busses, we hear nowt for months, then you get a whole bunch of stuff done in a week! Good progress, engine out soon me thinks!! :p
 
Yeah, i hope so, i think around the start of next week the engine will be out!

Whent to see Jay today, to collect a rear ABS ring (cheers for that mate :eek:k: ), my abs ring was shot!

IMG00222-20110913-1733.jpg


New ring fitted, with some good advice from Jay

IMG00226-20110914-1644.jpg


But something was playing on my mind! :? I didnt know weather to go for Poly bushes, or keep the standard bushes! But looking at Jay's puma made my mind up, so this was my haul for today!!

IMG00223-20110914-1353.jpg


Took a trip down to Pumabuild, and i have to say, they were very good, very reasonable with the prices, and had a good crack with the lads down there. Got my rear axle bushes, and some front wishbone bushes. I didnt want to fit the axle, then have to take it off if i chose to fit poly bushes. The bushes were a little tricky to get out, i had to cut the centre out first, then cut the outer metal ring with a hacksaw. Took me about 1 and a half hours to get them out, this is all that is left of the 2 bushes

IMG00231-20110914-2102.jpg


I decided to masking tape either side of my new axle spacers, and then put a few coats of clear laquer on them to hopefully prevent them corroding like every other set ive seen!

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While i was waiting for that to dry, i thought id get a bit more done on my cylinder head.

The pictures arent very good, but if you look at the port on the right, you can see a step! Every duratec has them, the sizes are different, but every port has one! The port on the left has been ground down to allow the gas to flow better. Its not a major porting job, just the major bits i can see that will cause restriction.

IMG00228-20110914-1740.jpg


The 1st 5 ports on the top have been done, you can see a better clarity in this pic

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And all the top row done now

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More updates tomorrow!!
 
your getting loads done! your have to let me know how harsh those bushes are,so i know if i would go for them, what coilovers have you got?
 
They are Gaz coilovers, full height and damping adjustable, so i can always just soften the damping a notch if it feels too hard. The problem is, ive not driven a puma for a while now without poly bushes, so i wont know if it makes a lot of difference, my green puma is poly bushed, and i hadn't drove my silver puma for about a year now!

The green puma with regular G-max shocks and springs handles really well, but i cant say if thats down to the poly bushes, the puma is a great handling car anyway!!
 
Another quick update, ive been working on the car, but its all boring stuff that everyone else seems to be doing, de-rusting ect, and i didnt want to bore everyone with more pics of the rusty underside of my car, so just a few pics of progress!

Rear axle and brakes all put back together

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IMG00235-20110915-2031.jpg

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Then got hub adaptors for coilovers pretty much finished up, out of stainless.

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And finally got the engine out!!

IMG00246-20110923-1355.jpg

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More progress soon!

Oh, and i could do with some advice/opinions from people, i dont know weather to go for a vibra-technics rear engine mount, or use the standard ST150 mount with powerflex bushes? Anyone have any experience with any of these, which one would you reccomend??

Also, does anybody know if there would be any issues with powdercoating the front ABS rings, will the sensors still pick up the signal, or will the powdercoat affect it?? Thanks in advance
 
use the vibra-technics one but get the fast road ones not the compition.....the powerflex ones are really harsh and shake the car to pieces, but in 6 months time it will wear out. i would defonatly go for the vibra-tecnics.......great work ur going...cant wait to see it finished :)
 
madhillbilly17 said:
you have been busy, nice job on the hub adaptors :eek:k:

Thanks mate, dont know weather to leave them as they are, or weld up the little gaps in the flange??

eddy said:
use the vibra-technics one but get the fast road ones not the compition.....the powerflex ones are really harsh and shake the car to pieces, but in 6 months time it will wear out. i would defonatly go for the vibra-tecnics.......great work ur going...cant wait to see it finished :)

Thats the kind of info im looking for, thanks mate!! :thumbs:

Theres only about £20 difference in the price, so id rather get it right the 1st time! I know the vibra-technics uses rubber, but i werent too sure if that would be too soft!
 
Seeing the rear suspension, I have a question. AFAIK it is not possible to adjust wheel geometry in any way on rear axle. Am I right, or is there a solution for that? I would think that these components and the cars themselves are getting into certain age and the susupension would get out of alignment...
Is there an aftermarket solution for that?
Thanks in advance
 
Yes, there are a few different solutions for adjusting geometry of the rear axle, you can get new rear axle spacers, as I did with new high tensile bolts, you can get tapered washers to adjust camber toe, there is even an independant suspension rear axle available, like the S1600 style, but it's VERY expensive!
 
I dont know where you would get an independant rear beam from, but here are some pictures of one! They are not my pictures.

IndependantRearBeam4.jpg


IndependantRearBeam3.jpg


IndependantRearBeam2.jpg


IndependantRearBeam.jpg


Camber and castor shims can be brought on fleebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-Rear-Camber-Shims-Ford-Fiesta-Mk-5-99-02-/270613723415?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f01d5b917" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And the axle spacers are here for 22 - 40mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-REAR-BEAM-STUB-AXLE-SPACERS-MK4-5-FIESTA-PUMA-KA-/390313656167?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae081bf67" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here for sizes from 0 to 21.5mm - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-REAR-BEAM-STUB-AXLE-SPACERS-MK4-5-FIESTA-PUMA-KA-/390305994640?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae00cd790" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are a really good quality, and come with 10.9 high tensile bolts too!
 
Its not an S1600 rear beam, i think this started life out as a standard beam, and its been modified to make it independant.
 

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