FRP Duratec Turbo Project!

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nice! im amazed non of the engineering firms could do it! especially a laser engrave

i get things laser cut in derby, can ask for you next time im in if you want? we could do it at school...but only onto plastic, our laser cutter won't do metal...although we're gonna attempt anodized ali soonish (just burning the colour off...)
 
Yeah, if you don't mind, I even offered to do the drawing in any format ready for the cnc, but no joy. There was a company in Middlesbouugh that said they might have the facilities to do it, but weren't willing to do it because it's breaking copy right infringement!! I don't understand why' its for a ford racing puma, it is build number 45, and it is a genuine duratec!! It's not like I'm putting it on a Citroen Saxo FFS!!!

I looked into the last option you mention, that can be done with a co2 laser, and can look quite good with a decent stepper motor in the machine, if the stepper is a low budget one, it can look a bit pixelated and blocky. You don't need anodised, you can get a spray that you spray onto the metal, and the co2 burns it onto the surface to leave a black line, can't remember what the spray is called now though!

I did happen to find a guy on eBay last night who makes belt buckles with a CNC, he makes a few CNC items, do I'm pretty sure he could do it, so I'm waiting for a reply from him.

If you could ask, that would be great though mate, I don't know if you remember me asking you months ago, that's how long I've been trying to get it sorted!!
 
I got the engine running on the megasquirt. The cams need re shimming, so it sounds like a tractor at the moment, but its running!! The engine needs running in and tuning properly.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLzDAsyrc24[/youtube]

Im really pleased with the exhaust, its really quiet, the second video shows the exhaust

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPaTMHkFvn0[/youtube]

Ill upload another video when ive re-shimmed the cams, hopefully it will sound a lot better then!!
 
This is an awesome project. And I can see how much work as gone into this! Very impressed..

Has the engine has new rings? .. as you said it needed running in.

It's just, if it has - you didn't want to let it idle. It can glaze the bores in no time. The best thing for it, is to rev it and drive it to force the rings onto the cylinder wall.

I'm just in the process of the next stage (power wise) with my puma. I have the FRS engine though :)

Keep up the good work :D
 
Longyear said:
Wow, congratulations! Awesome. I bet you were stoked!
Thanks man, yeah, im pleased, its nowhere near finished yet, but hopefully its not too far now!

red said:
:cool: That's some very nice work there!
Cheers! Ill be happier when it doesent sound like a tracktor, but its nice to see it running!

.
moondustka said:
This is an awesome project. And I can see how much work as gone into this! Very impressed..

Has the engine has new rings? .. as you said it needed running in.

It's just, if it has - you didn't want to let it idle. It can glaze the bores in no time. The best thing for it, is to rev it and drive it to force the rings onto the cylinder wall.

I'm just in the process of the next stage (power wise) with my puma. I have the FRS engine though :)

Keep up the good work :D

Yeah, the engine has had new pistons, new con rods, new big end bearings, main bearings, ARP head studs, ARP main studs, so leaving it to idle isnt the smartest thing ive done, but ive only run it for these vids and not started it since, the next time will be under load driving it! The focus rs engine is a solid engine, it can take a lot more power then the duratec, but the duratec head flows better then the focus rs engine, the valves are bigger and its a lot lighter. The duratec block maxes out around 450bhp i think, and thats a lot more then im looking for. The focus RS block (also labelled as a duratec but has an iron block and is a re-worked version of the blacktop zetec) can take over double that!! I suppose each engine has pros and cons, i just opted for the duratec (mazda) engine. What management are you using, and do you have a project thread for it?

Ill be upgrading to a Megasquirt 2 v2.2, the one you see fitted there is a Megasquirt 1 v2.2. The MS1 has 12 x 12 tuning grids for fuel and spark, and an 8 x 8 Air fuel ratio table. The MS2 has two 12 x 12 tables for spark, ive set it up as one for off boost, and 1 for on boost. That allows for much more finer tuning, and it has two 16 x 16 grids for tuning fuel, so again im setting mine up for on boost fuel and off boost fuel. Its easier to map it with more boxes because the ecu will just interpolate between 2 boxes, so when you have a big step, it just makes a linear calculation between the 2 numbers, but generally speaking, fuelling or spark arent linear, fuelling normally follows the torque curve, so will drop off after a certain amount of revs.

Ill add details of the upgrade just incase anyone else wants to do the same thing. And again if anyone wants the map, i can do a screen shot of the tables once its set up right, the table might be useful to someone doing a duratec swap, at least as a start up map to get it running.
 
Thanks guys.

Had a disaster :cry: i was just done shimming up the cams, when i heard a pop! Looked around the engine bay to see if i could see what it was, and couldnt see anything. Then notices the 2 lobes on the inlet cam cylinder 2 werent pointing in the same direction!! :evil: I dont know how the hell this happened:

IMG00394-20120130-1924.jpg


IMG00395-20120130-1924.jpg


Inlet cam snapped in half. There was no restriction in the cam, when it snapped, i turned both half's by hand and they both turned, so they werent buckled of bent, and they had loads of oil in the bearings, but im not a happy bunny, looks like cheap cast metal might have been used. Ive NEVER heard of a cam spontaneously combusting!! So for now ill just run the engine in with the standard inlet cam, they are quite good for turbo, but just wont flow as much. Ill probably go for a cosworth cam later on!

Im not deterred, its just another hurdle to get over, getting to the cam chain in this engine bay is not an easy task!!! :roll:
 
Charlie chan cams. They were sold to me as piper cams that were brought as blanks, and then custom ground by Ric Wood for a turbo charged duratec engine. & they werent cheap either, i had the option between a set of Cosworth cams or these for the same price, but because the cosworth cams werent developed for forced induction, and these were, i thought these were the better option. I have no doubt in my mind that the the guy i got them off was genuine, the other stuff he was selling was all top notch, and i think there were receipts for over £20k for custom made stuff. I just believe he might have been bumped when he brought them. He paid £900 for an intercooler and £3k for an exhaust, so people saw he had money to spend and probably sold him garbage! Now im left with it. Interestingly enough, he got a lot of the stuff through Alan at Pumabuild, Alan himself told me that he sorted the cams out for him, so i might go down PB in the week and see if an arrangement cant be made!
 
Ah that's gutting ..... one big step forward, then one frustrating step back eh.. :(

I know you'll get it sorted though, and it's perhaps better that the cam snapped at this stage, rather than surviving until everything else was done, then 'popping' while you're approaching the pre-stage at Santa Pod lol!

Good luck in getting it sorted. :cool:
 
Well thats the good thing mate, it happened while the engine werent even running!!! Immagine the damage it could have caused if the engine was doing 5000rpm or more. I mat have paid a lot for them, but its nowhere near the cost of rebuilding the whole engine again, not to mention the time!! Under the circumstances, im VERY pleased it happened when it did!!
 
PumaNoob said:
Yeah, the engine has had new pistons, new con rods, new big end bearings, main bearings, ARP head studs, ARP main studs, so leaving it to idle isnt the smartest thing ive done, but ive only run it for these vids and not started it since, the next time will be under load driving it! The focus rs engine is a solid engine, it can take a lot more power then the duratec, but the duratec head flows better then the focus rs engine, the valves are bigger and its a lot lighter. The duratec block maxes out around 450bhp i think, and thats a lot more then im looking for. The focus RS block (also labelled as a duratec but has an iron block and is a re-worked version of the blacktop zetec) can take over double that!! I suppose each engine has pros and cons, i just opted for the duratec (mazda) engine. What management are you using, and do you have a project thread for it?


Long story short, I used to have the engine in a Ka, my brother has one also (you may have seen it in performance ford). I came into a little difficulty with mine and swapped everything to a puma as I couldn't face doing the fabrication work I'd done, again.

Not looked back since I've had the puma - the only downside I can see is extra weight, but pro's far out weight that.

I'm on omex 600, mapped by TDI. Before my current stage, it was doing 245hp at the hubs, so est. 280-290 at fly. They gave some very good advice for how to progress. The aim is 300 at the hubs. So currently going for rs500 style intercooler, cosworth radiator (as i had massive cooling troubles in the summer with std puma rad). I wanted to keep air con but had to ditch it in the end. Managed to retain power steering.

I don't have a project thread for my puma. I might start one, although it's a little late, as I don't have many photos at all of the stages before hand.

What radiator are you running? ..and also intercooler? You have the benefit of the inlet and exhaust being round the right way :lol:

Sorry to hear about the camshaft - thanks god it happened when it did!
 
Was one of the KA's purple?? I remember seeing a ridiculously quick purple ka with an RS engine in it, I think that was one of the cars I got my inspiration from!!

I anticipated possible cooling issues, so ive fitted a focus RS rad, it's bigger and thicker then the puma rad, and my intercooler is a vauxhall frontera slightly modified. It's got a large surface area, but it quite thin, very similar to the RS500 cooler, the universal ones are ok, but not as efficient in my opinion because they only have a small surface area for the cold air to contact. The more of the cooler the cold air can touch, the cooler the charge should be, as long as the flow capacity is enough.

Did you go down Santa Pod end of last summer, some mates of mine went down and told me about a black puma and another 1 that were tearing it up and nothing could touch them, I tried to find out who it was, but nobody knew! What turbo are you running and what size injectors, and are you running the FRS box or a something else?
 
very lucky the cam went when it did!!

you 100% certain you torqued the cam caps correctly?? Ive known of cams to snap from the wrong torque.

While the cams are out, i'd manually check all the valve train parts move freely just in case.
 
Well thats just it, the cams werent torqued up, i had only hand tightened the caps! I oiled up the lower bearing, dropped the cam in, oiled the top of the cam, and then, put the caps on and just did the bolts hand tight, starting with the end where the lobes were pushing the valves down, and worked my way along the cam! I didnt tighten them all the way down, i tightened each one a little and moved to the next, so the whole cam went down paralell. If id have just bolted one side down with an impact wrench or something, then i could understand, but it did it properly, and the cams had been sitting in the engine about 5 mins when i heard the pop.
 
Got around to upgrading my ECU to MS2. Its a pretty simple upgrade, just requires a new processor. The long black chip in this pic is the processor in an MS1.

PICT0650.jpg


Its still a very good processor, but i think MS2 is more suited to my car. This is the chipset that replaces the original one to upgrade to MS2

PICT0649.jpg


Installed

PICT0651.jpg


It gives a lot more in depth mapping. If you want to use it with an EDIS like i am, then there are a few internal mods to do, jumpering a few connections inside.

OutputModsMS2.jpg


PICT0652.jpg


PICT0653.jpg


All done now, just need to put the settings in for my car and test it.
 

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