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Hi Wild E
Top marks to you for all your hard work it's really a credit to you. A year ago I was rebuilding the rear suspension on my Westy and I needed some new Rose Joints (unibals). I went to Westfield for them but they were out of stock but the parts guy said buy aurora or better. Then I found out the difference in price between good and bad. The aurora ones were nearly £50 each compared to some ones that cost about £10 each but the most expensive ones were £100 each. That's a big difference!
Barry
 
Small(ish) update. Just couldn't stand the fact that overhaul of alternator wasn't complete so completed it :lol:

EDIT: for future reference, these are the bearings I used:

I used PFI bearings (http://www.pfibearings.com/eCatalogue).
The big one is 17/47 mm x 14(ID/OD x width). #6303-2RS C3.
The small one is 8/23 x 14 mm (ID/OD x width). #B8-23D

Now now how to dismantle the mitsubishi alternator which is in puma. After taking the 4 screws down left on it pulley and bearing and just pulled the front (which has a new bearing) out. It came out completely with some gentle persuasion not to break anything.
The bearing was bone dry, spinning like crazy, but rather noisy. It created very high frequency pitch at idling that was audible but barely. But the slider contacts are as good as new, incredible condition! No need for changing them, one slodering less to do!


The other part of alternator with electronic section still in. You just undo these three screws and pull it out completely



And that is it!




Pull down this plastic thing, it comes very easily


Carefully pry this plastic cover open. I heated it up first with a heat gun to prevent it from breaking


You will now see the contacts of the brushes that need desoldering


Once you do it, you can take the brushes out. Comparison of the new and the old one. The old is so worn that it has eaten the hole section


That hole is important in reassembly phase. Through it you will guide a wire that will hold the brushes in their place against the spring. Without you wouldn't be able to assemble it back!
So, resoldered the new brushes to the little plate with spring in between. I believe there are some kits on eBay that come complete with the spring and the little plate to save you the hussle of one soldering! I didn't have such, so had to do some soldering. After that was done, you are left with them protruding in the shaft area


That is why you need the wire to hold them back in! Then it looks like this


In the meantime I cleaned the other part of housing and gave it a spray to look nicer




Also changed the little bearing. It was pig to be takend down, actually. The puller couldn't reach it as the gap to the slider was to small. So used all the tricks I could. First clamped it really tight in big vice. That will ALWAYS make the outer bearing runner crack. After that grinded it a bit and basically broke it in pieces and took away. The inner part grinded through and then pulled from the shaft. Always use it to tap the new bearing in its place. It went on without problems and here it is


Putting it back together is piece of cake. And here it is in all its glory bolted to the engine


After starting the engine the red light signalling low voltage was sporadically going on but, that is normal! It is just in first phase of the new brushes bedding in. Just to make sure went for the voltmeter and by the time I took it, set up and brought from the house, the light stopped appearing and the voltage was stable 14,47 -14,48 V. It never came back, the pitch is gone and one more thing learned!

Also, couldn't resist the temptation so cleaned IAV and resprayed it as well


Looking smart under the hood now
 
Hi Wild E
Well done with the alternator, I suppose most of us over in the UK would have just bought another as they are inexpensive and easy to come by.
Barry
 
The standard of your work is amazing, I like how you have kept everything looking like it could have come from ford as an extra! I really like the boot switch idea, as you say without having a spare key on you you can't open the boot with the engine running, I have the same issue on my focus! I might do this mod.

Very impressive project though!
 
Thanks mate! It is a child's play comparing to your car, though….. :oops:

Anyway, smallish update time! Acquired an escort RST LSD. That was why I got another gearbox to put it in. As most of you know, the LSD fits in the crownwheel, but some mashining is required. So I had the crown wheel mashined as required.



Also, just couldn't take a gamble on putting such an old LSD in completely renewed gearbox without service so sent it to Bara motorsport for service, they also rerated it to 120 Nm. It should improve the handling.
So sent it to them, they serviced it resent back. There was a small scare for me as the parcel got sidetracked for a week or so, but the courier found it and resent. It arrived safely…



And inside there was this, nothing to be specially admired but nevertheless….



Time for putting it together! Cleaned and degreased the housing few times to end up with this





Putting the LSD unit in the housing..



And closing it with the retaining screws just to hold it in place until final instalment



Crown wheel with imbus screws waiting by….



And put back together…





Now it is a matter of putting the gearbox back together which will happen in the coming days….
 
Nice work again Wild E
I didn't know you could use the LSD out of the RS Turbo in a IB5 box as didn't the RS Turbo use a BC box and the BC box had a weakness for diff bearings (wobbly speedo reading). In the late 80s/early 90s I had to replace the diff bearings in an Escort and a Fiesta and I remember getting fifth gear on and off was an absolute t**t so I hope the IB5 diff bearings are much stronger.
Barry
 
Yep, the bearings in IB5 are bigger and stronger. The inner dimension is the same as on RST LSD, but outer is much bigger, I'd say about 20%. So, it fits straight in. You just have to either enlarge the IB5 crown gear a bit, or mashine down some of the material on the diff. As two halves meet together there, I thought it made more sense to enlarge just the crown gear for it to be able to accept the LSD!

And yes, taking down the fifth gear is impossible if you don't have the Ford fifth gear puller. Even with it it is barely doable as the fifth gear is incredibly stiff.

My eternal gratitude goes to Pumanoob who lent me his puller to dismantle the gearbox! Cheers, mate :cool:
 
Hi Wild E
Do they still use that conical washer to pre-load the diff bearings as well?
I bought a cheap puller to remove the fifth gear and it bent it to hell but got the gear off and I think I might have used oxy acetylene to warm up the fifth gear before I put it back on but you have to be quick or it will stick in the wrong place and you have to take it off again :-(
Thank god they brought out the IB5 as the BC bearings could go within 30,000 miles.
Barry
 
Yes, there are the washers for preloading the diff bearings.

Pumanoob told me the way of putting the fifth gear back on is just to smack it with a hammer. The shock makes it go on. I am cautios on heating the gears with flame as you might ruin the cementing on the surface of gears….
 
Yeah it's a difficult one that, as you said you could ruin the hardening on the gear with heat but if you smack the gear on, baring in mind how tight it is(no pun intended) you could damage the bearings on that shaft.
Barry
 
Ha ha you should have a bit more finess then just smack it with a hammer lol. But yeah when I've built IB5s I just tap the 5th gear on with a metal hammer, hitting with short sharp blows, squarely on the inner race only, using a thick tube section to finish the last part (so you can get the spring washe back on)

I spoke with a master tech at ford and he told me that's how they do it there. He said a press can put too much side load on the bearings of the output shaft.

I'm not a fan of heating up gears and case hardened metal as if you get it too hot I believe it can reverse the annealing process and weaken the metal.
 
Hi Wild E
Just to show you we get it as well

281220141765_zpsd368afa9.jpg


This is it at 3.30pm today and it's mostly compressed ice now but on the 26th we had 100mm of snow and I nearly didn't make it home from my sisters as the roads were terrible :-(
Barry
 
No in 2010 we had up to -20c in some parts of the UK. I think you may have to have winter tyres in Croatia and we don't so as soon as we get any snow everything stops...we're rubbish at it really :grin:
Barry
 
We have to put on winter tyres from 15th of November till 1st of April.

I think I have read somewhere that you don't have a winter service that is clearing roads in case of snow and salting them to prevent formation of ice?
 
We do. We have coverage on all roads for gritting but with a Pecking order ie Motorways, Trunk roads, A roads, bus routes etc but there have been so many cut backs particularly in Local Government that the weather report has to be certain before gritting commences. Also at Xmas time the employers would have struggled to get workforce back to work.
Barry
 
On the 26th the gritters came out after the snow had melted round my way. Really helpful, so all they achieved was getting my car really dirty.
 
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