My new Puma....

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MCPuma

New member
Joined
Jun 3, 2016
Messages
8
Hi all!

Just taken ownership of a 1999 V Puma 1.7 in red, from a family member.

The car does have some issues but it was FREE so i can't complain!

It's got the usual rust on the rear arches (although not as bad as some that i've seen) and various other little areas of rust around the car.

Before i did anything to the car i wanted to have it checked out to see if it's solid underneath so i took it to work (work in a garage - athough i'm not a mechanic) and happily i was told it was 'solid' underneath and one of the better ones they had seen, especially considering the age.

So, thats good..and i will now commit to fixing it up a bit.

Is it OK if i list a few things to see if anyone has any ideas? (on the ones i dont know!)

The main things to sort out (im not concerned with the cosmetic side of things at the moment)

*Needs new OSF coil spring, a part of it broke off when i moved it from where it has been parked. (it's been stood for quite a long time)

*Battery is goosed. Charges up ok but just doesn't hold it. New battery imminent.

*Needs cambelt change. It does have a decent service history but no proof of this being done so i want to get it done. Should i do water pump at the same time? I've read it's not belt driven?

*Exhaust is now just starting to blow right at the join to the back box. It looks pretty ancient so best get replaced i reckon.

*Little niggly things - the 'door open' warning light comes on and off when driving. It will stay off when the road is smooth but comes on and off over bumps. Any ideas?

*The drivers door is hard to lock. I'm thinking the lock itself may be worn? The passenger side works fine however. (they've been using the key rather than the remote function as when the battery ran out they just....stopped using it. The central locking does work but i tend to lock it from the passenger side, i dont want to mess up the drivers lock any more than it might already be.

The boot takes a few presses of the button to work. I tried cleaning the contacts but that didn't seem to help. It does open...but you need to press the button a few times before the car 'realises' and moves the switch to release it.

Cosmetic stuff:

*The bonnet doesn't sit straight! At first i thought it been in a bump and become misaligned but then i noticed other Pumas (as you do) and they also seemed to have the same thing! The NS edge of the bonnet is raised up by approx 1cm all the way, whereas the OS is completely flush and normal. I'm hoping it's an adjustment i can make to the hinges?

*Both of the door mirrors have faded to pink. I'm going to polish them and paint them back to red.

*The passenger side door mirror is sitting proud. By that i mean...the housing is now 1-2cm 'out' from where it should be, touching the black but. It looks as if the whole mirror needs to be pushed back 'into place' but i can't seem to do it. It still adjusts OK but it just looks wrong!

*Various scuffs and minor bumps that i'll clear up as best i can but i' not inclined to get it all done 'properly' unless i get the mechanical stuff all sorted first.

Sorry if this is a very long first post!

I've actually wanted a Puma for years. I wouldn't have bought this one, given a choice, but when it's offered FOC, really couldn't say no!

It drives nice, strong engine and great gearbox as everyone always goes on about. I've taken it easy so far though due to the above work needing carried out before i can fully enjoy it.
 
First of all - Welcome.

*Needs cambelt change. It does have a decent service history but no proof of this being done so i want to get it done. Should i do water pump at the same time? I've read it's not belt driven?

It is recommended when changing the cambelt that you also change the waterpump. Mine is due in a year from now - so I will change the cambelt, the auxillary belt, the waterpump and me just being picky (while I'm in there), the thermostat and housing.

Check the state of the inner sills, as these corrode and they are structural parts of the car.
 
Thanks, i may get those done too...
I was with our MOT tech as he hammered all of the underneath of the car...i was thinking...pleeeeeaasse dont crumble! And it didn't. He checked the whole thing bit by bit and proclaimed "i'd got lucky" with it.

I've just thought of another thing atually. The heating is a bit wierd. I think this is the commonly mentioned HCV problem? It does heat up and cool down in response to the controls, but in it's own extremely leisurely time. I've read up on how to change that, i think i may be able to do it myself....maybe.
 
The HCV is an easy job to do, but don't be tempted buying a eBay special at £10. We've all done it and they've all failed within a month.

The only one to buy is: 7N21-18495-AB from Ford (it's about £47) but this version is the latest version where the internal bore is slightly larger.
 
Take a look at this: http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Common_Problems_%28Puma%29
 
I was with our MOT tech as he hammered all of the underneath of the car...i was thinking...pleeeeeaasse dont crumble! And it didn't. He checked the whole thing bit by bit and proclaimed "i'd got lucky" with it.

The inner sills can only be accessed from inside the car to see the corrosion - the inner sills sit below the rear speaker boxes (you would have to remove the rear seat, rear quarter panels and speaker boxes to access the inner sills.

If they are all good (i.e. no rust or corrosion at all) then spray liberally with Bilt Hamber S-50; at the same time do the door sills.
 
Welcome, that's an epic first post :D

*Needs new OSF coil spring - consider replacing the pair
*Needs cambelt change. Should i do water pump at the same time? - Probably a good idea given its age - I've read it's not belt driven? It is belt driven, as per a previous comment.
*the 'door open' warning light comes on and off when driving. It will stay off when the road is smooth but comes on and off over bumps. Any ideas? - Most likely the bonnet switch, these get really worn out over time. Replace it for not much money or just tape it down if you aren't bothered about knowing if it's open or just want to test it.
*The drivers door is hard to lock. - Maybe try some lubrication, WD40 etc?

The boot is set to open on two presses, might be what you're seeing?
 
Yes, sorry for the loooong first post! I should have broken it up and posted in the relevant sections of the website.

The other front coil spring got replaced in November, shortly before the car stopped being used. So the springs will almost be the same age (well, mileage) as the car was not used from December till end of May.

Replaced battery yesterday, much better. Also fixed the remote locking thanks to the guide on this site :)

Getting cam belt kit and water pump (and coil spring/drop link) replaced early this week.

Bonnet switch makes sense i suppose, as the bonnet does not sit flush...so it could be hitting and missing the sensor?

The boot opens better now with the new battery, but still takes 2-3 presses of the button (on the boot) It kinda works with the remote key too but takes many presses, so i think the tailgate switch needs looking at or i need to clean the contacts more thoroughly.
 
RE the wing mirror thing, sounds like its been 'folded' at some point and not 'unfolded' properly. Now don't quote me, this is hard to explain but I'm sure if you fold it in towards the window slightly then push it in (towards the mounting plate) while unfolding it, it should seat properly. Just be gentle ;)
 

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