Top Mounts - Is this a problem?

[scz4]

Evening all,

I fitted new shock absorbers, springs and the rubber top mounts on the inside of the turret. But I'm getting a slight knocking noise and wondering if this is my problem...

Doesn't look right to me, but it's as tight as I can get it by hand (spanner and hey key). Perhaps I need an impact gun on it?

 

[Flying Scotsman]

Okay, not to worry you... but i had something looking similar... AFTER.... i drive my car off the side of a welsh mountain.... popped the suspension... mine used to be flush against the mounts... However, i know FRP's look like that and some people have std pumas that have that also..... so id say, what was it like before? How does it drive? Maybe pop into a gargae and just ask if its secure enough?

 

[scz4]

That doesn't sound so good. Not sure how it was before I repalced everything to be honest. I can't work out what would be stopping the nut from tightening right down. I'm getting a metalic knocking noise over pot holes etc, so went to re-tighten everything up and noticed this.

I'm hoping sticking an impact gun on the nut will tighten the nut right up.

 

[PhilLew]

I don't know if yours are right but I found this :grin:

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9092" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hope that helps

 

[scz4]

Thanks for the link.

I've already fitted new front strut top mountings

 

[ScubaSteve]

It won't be the cause if the knocking and some do sit like that

 

[ScubaSteve]

If you want though il swap you my later top mount damper weights which are all one unit and may fit better if you can get yours off?

 

[scz4]

It won't be the cause if the knocking and some do sit like that

Fair enough Steve. I have some new anti roll bar bushes on the way, could be that. Just seems strange them sitting like that, what's pulling the shock up to the turrett then, to stop it moving side to side and up and down. Every other car I've worked on they are connected.

I can remove my struts. What do the newer ones look like. If it's not a problem then I guess I should look elsewhere.

Do you think it's worth giving them a whizz with an impact gun? I couldn't tighten the passenger side one right up by hand as my friend snapped the allen key head in there when building it, so it's only as tight as I can get it with the spanner before it starts to spin. This is where I though the clunking may be coming from.

However, the picture is from the one which is properly tightened up.

 

[ScubaSteve]

The later design is all one piece and a litle deeper you won't be able to tighten those up anymore btw. If you want to swap to try the later ones let me know. Your early style has a seperate cup underneath that damper weight. Reason I want it is purely weight saving lol to just use the metal cups if that makes sense

 

[scz4]

Ah ok, won't bother trying to tighten them up even more then, even though I couldn't get an allen key on the passenger side? The cup and weight turn freely by hand.. that can't be right?

Post a picture of yours so I can see what you mean I'm up for swapping if it makes sense

 

[ScubaSteve]

Kk il pm you one shortly

 

[madhillbilly17]

if you get a rag and a pair of mole grips you could hold the shaft to tighten it,but do it as high up the shaft as possible just in case you do score it.

 

[Sjoerd]

I'm having them just like that. I guess I should replace them as they are still the original ones anyway and it doesn't seem that hard of a fix. The clonking is also present in my car. Three months ago I replace all the suspension and ARB rubbers for Powerflex bushes. I was hoping the clonking would be over but it's still there. Are you guys sure it can't be from these?