Budget Puma TURBO Project!!

[clarkie]

this thread is amazing i have been wanting to turbo my cat for soooo long but just dont have the skill involved in doing it what is your total cost now that you have management and everything running nice at 12psi.

it would be nice if you could do a new list with all the extra bits you have brought along the way so we can all see exactly what its cost

man i need to come see this car in the metal an have a proper talk with you

top work fella

 

[PumaNoob]

Thanks for the comments mate. Its not set up properly yet, because ive had to do some work on my house, so the puma has been put on hold for a bit, but i should be finished early next week so ill do a list mate, if your local to me ill be more then happy to help you with it, its really not that hard, the stuff like the megajolt is only me being greedy, ask TyeBoi what the car is like just running 5 psi, its ALOT of fun. Ill get a new list up for you mate with everything included.
Off the top of my head, theres only cams that i paid alot for, i think £250, megajolt was £150, EDIS module (for the megajolt) £15, and the induction kit i got lucky with, i think i paid about £30 for! I dont think theres anything else, i brought a scangauge, but i use that on my other cars too, so thats not part of the build. Ive just brought some speedline wheels that cost me £200 too, but again, not essential, i just brought bigger wheels because i wanted taller gearing. I may have an LSD for about £20, but im just waiting for the guy to get back to me.
Just send me a PM if you want to ask anything or come over and have a look at anything.

 

[BlackKnight1982]

Hey puma noob where did you get your stainless steel skin fitting oil return fitment from????

 

[PumaNoob]

I got it on fleebay mate, about £2 or something but i just got lucky. Alot of people use these http://www.screwfix.com/prods/27156/Plumbing/Chrome-Compression-Bits/Conex-Chrome-Compression-Female-Connector-22mm-x" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or these
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/47957/Plumbing/Compression-Fittings/Yorkshire-Kuterlite-Tank-Coupler-650-22mm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ive just helped a mate do his fiesta, and hes used the 1st one, but a copper version, works great, but the chrome 1 looks better. The second link is ideal, but copper dosent look too good , although, it will never be seen all the way down there.

Are you on with the SC then mate, when can we expect to see the beast??

 

[BlackKnight1982]

So your mate turbo'd his fiesta then?? did u just drill a hole in the top of the sump and bolt that up in the hole or did you tap it? Did you use and sealant or gasket??
I was going to use a sandwich plate with oil cooler to run my supercharger but i going to just take a oil feed from the oil pressure switch and run a oil return hose back into the sump instead, its easier and cheaper for now if i start getting high oil temps i will look at it then.

 

[PumaNoob]

Sorry its taken so long to reply, ive been away working. Yeah, my mate turbod his mk3 fiesta, i did the timing and torqued the head, and got everything working, but he did most the work himself.If you think mines budget, you should see his. But his is a bodge, i cant see it lasting very long, patchwork exhaust held together with exhaust putty,varius sizes of intercooler pipe from varius materials, he even tried to use electrical tape instead of some jubilee clips! Thats why i dont really want to associate myself with that car!
I thought you were using an eaton M45? They have self contgained oil dont they?? And i thought they needed some sort of bean oil? I could be wrong, but thats what i was lead to believe. On mine, i just drilled the hole, and used the same gasket sealant that i used to put the sump on with. The nut on the top holds it really secure. I got my oil feed from the iol pressure switch too, as long as you tighten it up ok, there shouldnt be any problems, my oil and water temps dont exceed the standard temps.

 

[BlackKnight1982]

Sound, ive got a early Rotrex supercharger which uses engine oil. Well thats good to know on the temperature front.
This seems the easiest and quickiest way of getting this system setup. Ive just gotta get some new front tyres then my money will be going on a fmu, then i will get it all bolted up!

 

[PumaNoob]

ive got an adjustable FMU off a jackson racing supercharger kit if you want to try it mate, but mine over fuels with it, even set at 5:1. If youve got your air fuel gauge on, just try it without any mods to the fueling, ive had to take all the fuelling mods off, even the powerboost valve, because it was just overfuelling. With the FRP map, it still runs slightly rich, not enough to bring up a fault code, but its still a bit rich. I think because the puma uses a MAF sensor, and not a MAP sensor, it just puts enough fuel for the amount of air, so fuelling is fine. As i say, its the FRP map, but i think i remember you saying you had a dreamscience map on yours, so im sure it will work out about the same as FRP. Ill try and get a video of my A/F gauge when im driving.

 

[BlackKnight1982]

So you have not got any fuel modifications at all?? Okay i will try it first with out any mods, looking at my afr gauge it does run rich when on wide open throttle. How much would you be looking for that fmu?? If i need it? On your system where have you got the MAF sensor?

 

[PumaNoob]

No mate, ive got no fuel mods on whatsoever, and its running better then it ever has, but then im still only running at 5psi My Maf sensor is fixed onto the throttle body, because i was getting terrible idle (dump valve wasnt set up properly), but also whenever the dump valve went off, id get a big backfire because the ECU was fuelling for the air that it had just released, and also the engine would bog down. If you have a properly set up dump valve, or no dump valve at all, then it might not be an issue, although when the throttle is closed, the motion of the air in the inlet will bounce off the butterfly clip, and go back out through the induction, so im not sure how it would cope with that.

Ive just fitted my HKS super sequential blow off valve, it makes more of a whistle sound then a hiss now, and i brought Magnecor leads, only to find out they were for the newer coil pack then mine, so i had to go and get a new coil pack, but all fitted now, im going to give it a go in a bit.

 

[BlackKnight1982]

so ur MAF is reading the air underboost which comes from the turbo then intercooler?
Rotrex recommend this setup;

air filter >>> MAF >>> Supercharger >>> Recirculating dump valve >>> Intercooler >>> TB >>> Inlet Manifold
dump vavle to feed back in after MAF.

All vaccuum pipes from inlet manifold to have check valves installed due to boost conditions.

 

[PumaNoob]

It will be cheaper to do it that way mate, so try it, and then if it dosent work out, you can change the setup. That's exactly what I did, but it didn't work out for me like that. As I said, I had my dumpvalve set up incorrectly, & a turbo will work differently to your s/c, so just give it a go. It does seem strange how it fuels better without fueling mods, but even with a 1:1 rising rate regulator, it overfueled! As I said, what works for me may not wrk for you, but I'll get a vid up to show my A/F gauge. The vac line to the brake servo already has a check valve, & the vac sensor only sees meg pressure, so no probe there. I think the only other vac line is to the fuel pressure regulator, & I think that could be what's giving the extra fueling on boost!
So does this mean you've finished your bike now??

 

[BlackKnight1982]

I think there is always going to be a bit of trial and error as its never been done before!! I cant wait to get it sorted. tho i need two front new tyres and fit two new lower arms as the bushes on mine at the moment must be made of jelly!!!
The side exit exhaust works well, it looks mean too. just need to get a bracket sorted to hold up the middle box better.

 

[PumaNoob]

Ive brought these wheels, hoping to get them powder coated before i put them on, but ive put them on, and they dont look as bad as i thought, any opinions would be greatly appreciated!! I think they will do until i get around to getting them powdercoated black. Also, i was wondering if a black bonnet would look any good, what do you all think?

 

[woody21]

would look great but gold rims i dont like but thats just my say mate

 

[PumaNoob]

Thanks for your opinion mate, it seems some people like the gold, and some arent feeling it!! I think it looks better then i thought it would, but black with black bonnet is the way forward!

I got my megajolt map in the region of normal, so thought id try a bit more boost. It fuels fine up to 6 psi, but anything more then that, it starts to lean out, and on full throttle, i get fuel cut. Not sure if its a knock sensor, as i werent aware this engine had a knock sensor, but it definately feels like fuel cut off. As soon as you lift off the throttle, its fine, and if you ease it up to high rpm, it will go fine up to 12 psi, but at wide open throttle, 6 is as far as it will go. The boost in the cylinders is counteracting the fuel rail pressure, so if the fuel rail pressure is 2.7 bar @ WOT, at 10 psi it would go down to 1.9bar, or possibly lower, so ive installed my FMU again now, and ill have a play with that tommorow and see if i can get that running safe. Failing that, this project will have to stop at 6psi, ill get it rolling roaded, and then start a new project!

 

[TyeBoi]

sounds good dude!! dont talk to me about fuel problems lol. still suffering something!

hope you get it sorted!

black wheels and bonnet all the way mate.

just paint it. probs cheaper than trying to find a black stone chipped one.

 

[PumaNoob]

Didnt think anyone would be on here at this time!! I thought about painting mine, but then if i change my mind, im screwed! I think im better off buying a new bonnet, and painting it. I also want to put a bonnet vent in, just above the inlet manifold, dont want to look boy racer, but if i can get the cold air to blow down onto the inlet manifold, and cool the charge a bit more, it will make a noticable difference to the power. I might even buy a small motorbike fan, and put it on the underside of the vent, and then set it up to come on at about 3500 rpm, or at 0 psi of boost. I think the cast manifold will hold the cold air, and help combat heat soak from the engine.
What on earth has gone wrong with your car now? If its fuelling, id first look at the lambda, as yours was overfuelling for quite a while, so the new lambda you brought could be coated in soot.

 

[BlackKnight1982]

I don't think putting a vent in onto the inlet manifold would will do much! Do you currently have a front mounted intercooler?
You looking at getting Air Charger Temps down or just under the bonnet heat down??
For under bonnet temps i've put vents in my bonnet plus i removed the panel across the back of the engine bay.
This lets the exhaust heat and other heat from the engine escape out the vents in front of the window and creates airflow under the bonnet. Best of all its a free mod!

 

[PumaNoob]

I dont need the engine bay temps down anymore, i think the bonnet raisers let enough hot air out, although i looked at that pic of yours on your thread, and those aston martin type vents do look quite nice!!
I removed the plastic panel thats above the rad, that lets a bit more cold air in, but its the intake temps i want down. The engine regulates its own temp well with the standard rad, and thermostat, and keeps itself at optimum, but if youve ever sat in traffic for a period of time, and opened your bonnet, and felt the intake manifold, it gets quite warm/hot. I have a front mount which works well, as the left side is always warm, and the right side is cold, so its doing its job, but the air travels from there, and goes up into the engine bay piping, and in through the big cast inlet manifold, which is where i see an issue. As we all know, anything cast, weather it be steel or ali, holds heat or cold very well. The intake manifold is bolted on to the head, which is also cast, and even when your not pushing the engine, its going to get hot. The result is heat soak, traveling from the engine to the intake manifold, which is then re heating/warming the intercooled air passing through it. This makes the air less dense, and in turn less 02, resulting in less bang for your buck! If i get a vent or cold airfeed constantly blowing cold air onto the intake manifold, it should stay constantly cold, and in turn act as a sort of charge cooler.
Getting under bonnet temps down would also be a plus, as my air filter is only sucking in air from under the bonnet. Im goin to to look at opening up the inner arch carpet to get cold air in, and heat shield above the filter to stop the induction of the hot air.

What panel have you taken out, the plastic one that goes around the base of the wipers??