Car stalling problem continues

[GenesisRed]

Would the fiesta haynes have a walkthrough on this? Like a needle in a haystack on google...

Is there a different sensor for the fuel gauge? Or is it specifically the sender that may not be working? Cheers

 

[ScubaSteve]

the only sensor so to speak that will detect the fuel level will be the sender unit in the tank

 

[ScubaSteve]

just checked and removal of the sender/pump unit requires removal of the fuel tank

 

[GenesisRed]

Awesome...

What does it mean that the fuel gauge works fine? If it's the same sensor then it's not the problem, at least directly...

 

[ScubaSteve]

if the fuel guage works ok then its not a problem with the sender..

 

[GenesisRed]

Lol, so... this continues to confound...

So, any idea what might cause the fuel sensor / sensor to give a reading of zero to the ecu when at the same time the gauge reads fine?

We talking a broken cable or something easier?

Could the filler cap be a problem by not releasing the vacuum? As I mentioned above, when it refused to start, releasing and re-closing the filler cap resolved the problem.

Edit to add: two similar cases on different vehicles
http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/542501-p0460-code.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/error-code-p0460-194586/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[ScubaSteve]

sorry if iv missed but how do you know its giving a reading of zero to ecu?

 

[GenesisRed]

ah, the RAC guy plugged his computer in, and we sat there checking through anything we thought might be related... we tapped the fuel level sensor and it read literally 0% but the gauge was reading the quarter of a tank i'd put in 10 seconds before it played up.

he also brought up the EVAP system and gave it some beans - it responded as expected (according to him - what would i know!) - it peaked, cleared and then and then dropped back to nothing.

 

[GenesisRed]

Hi guys, any other ideas on where to go with this?

 

[danielz000]

"Fuel tank ventilation is achieved through a fuel tank rollover valve (into an evaporative emission canister). The fuel tank rollover valve prevents fuel loss from the fuel tank if the vehicle becomes inverted."

Apparently it's located about 6 inch backwards from the passenger side door about 2 inch higher than the handle...

No idea how to get to it tho... Maybe by pulling out an interior panel? Best ask about first though...

 

[mrMechanix]

I thought you'd found the problem mate. Does it not run with the fuel cap off? If it is the vacuum problem, You could buy a one way fuel tank breather valve and rig it up if you don't want to spend much. There's an output from the tank at the top/rear under the car, pipe from here to valve and secure it somewhere. Not exactly standard ford equipment but it'd work.

 

[GenesisRed]

i guess i'm happy to spend a bit if it sorts out the problem, and i'd rather get it done properly (if it's needed) than do a bodge myself as that has calamity written all over it! :roll:

I haven't tried running it without the cap - what will it mean if it does or doesn't run? I'll check it out tonight and let you know what happens.

Cheers guys

 

[GenesisRed]

So, I finally had the opportunity to run it until is started getting the oil pressure light staying on when starting (eventually it goes out) and when I opened the fuel cap, a big rush of air, and then when it starts again, the oil pressure is fine. Previously this has also sorted out the refusal to start problem.

It ran fine without the cap on for a few minutes ( no idea what i'm testing there or for how long I need to run it though). Any further suggestions?

It basically seems (at a guess) to be related to the pressure in the system and the level of fuel in the tank not being sent to the ecu or evap system (but sent fine to the dashboard gauge). Any ideas? Really starting to miss not having a car...

Cheers!

 

[oilburner]

I'd really have a go at clearing out the ventilation pipe for the fuel tank try running a long piece of wire down it

 

[frp292]

i had this! i took off the idle control valve, cleaning it with cotton buds ona stick (wat u clean ur ears with) dipping them in petrol, took a while to get it cleaned up then i pluged it bak in reconecting the battery (mates recomendation) apparently it dose something to the on board computer then took it for a very spirited drive and its fine now!

 

[jonnyb]

Does the car run okay without the cap on for more than a few minutes? Try going for a little run until it reaches normal operating temp (obviously not ragging it / turning harshly - just incase).

 

[Hollywood]

might also be worth giving your ICV a clean and making sure the throttle body ain't seizing... long shot again.

I'm glad someone else said that! I had a similar problem with an old fiesta which the puma is based on. I'm no expert, and certainly reading through the responses here, there are lots of them who will probably tell me I'm wrong, but the Idle Control Valve was causing the car to cut out ONLY when it was put into gear and driven. Would idle fine until you went to pull away, then starting 'hunting' and just stopped. The part wasn't expensive, and took five minutes to replace without any special tools.

The problem was intermittent too. Happened more on hot days, something to do with the air density.

I'm guessing though with all of the other things that have been tried and suggested it isn't that simple!

 

[tula]

:-( :-( I think you deserve a huge hug for your perseverence,how frustrating this must be for you,,you are probably almost there,cos you seem to have covered most of the advice given here ,,,Dont Give Up Yet!!!!! :!: xxxxx