The Skippy Kitten

[Skippy]

The worst of it (so far!)

I still need to get the fuel filler off to get to bits on the left side. I've decided not to rush and do a thorough job so I don't have to take the shocks out again. I'm going to trim The arch liners and Scotchgard them I think. They were still wet after nearly 2 weeks in the garage.

Also found a gap at the top of the shocks.. Is this gap right? I'm guessing not - could it be the cause of the clonk at the back end? I've got new top mounts to fit.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

No, the gap is fine.

 

[Skippy]

Cool. Thanks. Is there a reason for it?

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

If there wasn't gap, the drive would be noisy, to say the least...

 

[Skippy]

Ah ok. Thanks. It's just there to stop the struts falling out when jacked up? The old top mounts are perished so no loss in replacing them.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

To stop the struts from falling out and to stop them from moving around when your suspension gets unloaded. They are there for a reason, otherwise wouldn't be there :wink:

 

[Skippy]

I didn't doubt that there was a reason, it just struck me as a little odd that there would be a gap, especially given that there's a rubber part. I wondered if the gap had appeared as a result of the top mount ageing and deforming. I'm happy to leave a gap when I reassemble. Is there a correct gap to have? I couldn't see any mention in the Haynes manual for the Fiesta - albeit I was just scanning through to get the struts off!

Is the fuel filler easy to get out by the way?

While I'm at it are there any other jobs I should be doing with the rear wheels and struts off?

 

[Skippy]

After Hydrate and Hammerite

And before and after a minor refurb

 

[Skippy]

Today
Cleaned and scotchgarded rear arch liners refitted. Looks quite good if I do say so.

New ARB (poweflex) bushes fitted. That's the handling sorted!

However the ABS/traction warning lights cleared then came on during a short test drive. Now won't clear. Had the battery off for 10 minutes and no effect (expected). Any ideas. I checked the rear loom on the beam after the suspension work. Nothing obvious. The drums were covered while I did the arches too.

 

[hewy]

I had that problem on my Puma with the ABS and TCS lights on the dash until i found the sensor on the front passenger was damaged. I had this fixed. You could of damaged one of the rear sensors and have to replace the rear loom.

 

[Skippy]

Cheers. Is there an easy way of identifying the source of the fault?

 

[hewy]

A car diagnostic computer is the only option I can give to you. Wait till you finish your Puma and take it to a garage then ask them to do a check to see if they is any faults through the computer. If I'm right about your rear loom and the computer says the same, thats a unexpected expense for you.

 

[Skippy]

Thanks. Well I'm hopeful I can wangle access to a diagnostic box at some point. Hopefully a degree in electronics will come in handy to locate the fault if it is wiring. That rear loom is the most likely given that I had the beam lowered, or perhaps the rear wheel sensors. The alternative would be coincidence and the fault being anywhere.

 

[Skippy]

Update on the ABS... It normally clears the IP warnings after restarting the engine and moving off. It then returns at some random interval after that. I also had an instance where the ABS kicked in, possibly prematurely, and then the warning lights came on. Felt like front right. Definite pedal feedback. Still nothing obvious visually. All a bit weird.

I'll have the front wheels off again to do the front top mounts shortly. It can wait til then. No problems driving normally. Actually it feels really good at the moment.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

If you can, try measuring the resistance of sensors. It should read 1100 Ohms (give or take few). I had similar erratic behaviour on my car and found out that FL ABS sensor was reading 1980-ish Ohms. Changed it and everything back to normal...

 

[Skippy]

That I can do. Thanks!

 

[Skippy]

Ok, so I tried a F-Super 2 diagnostic box and no fault codes anywhere. Time to get the multimeter out.

If I need a new rear sensor loom, how long is it? - 2 lengths showing up on eBay. (1055mm, 1075mm)

 

[Skippy]

Well after some crawling around around and getting the front wheels off, I found the left front ABS sensor open circuit. Replacement to hand. Now just the old one to get out... May the swearing commence!

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

No need for swearin'; all you need is brute force and some time

Be careful not to deform the tone ring; if you do that you are going to be in trouble

 

[Skippy]

Thanks. All done. Needed the Dremel to get the body out. The tone ring looks true. Tried to do as much as possible from the other side.

I had a look at getting the front struts out for a check over, but ran out of time so tightened everything back up and put the wheels back on. Didn't have chance to get out and test the ABS unfortunately.